Our anode offers industry-leading surface area, which means that the current delivered through that surface area better reaches the far reaches of your water heater; more importantly, the larger surface area prevents detrimental power concentration on the anode surface, which means that the mixed metal oxide anode will remain viable for a long lifetime of use (estimated at 50 years for this design). 

Our environment-monitoring adapter has a long 12-foot cord, making it easy to place where you want it. The connector for the anode is color-coded red for the positive (+) anode, and the negative (-) connector for the ground is blue and it is forked instead of eyelet for easy installation. The adapter shows proper installation through an indicator light, and is tagged with instructions. 

The kit comes with a 1/2" drive * 1-1/16 hex impact socket for both removal of your old anode, and installation of the STOLTCO Powered Anode.  The anode ships with our proprietary pre-applied thread sealant for fast and easy installation!  Also included are printed instructions written by someone who both knows our system and who has installed many anodes. 

180-Day Satisfaction Guaranteed!

You get 180 days from purchase to return it (with invoice, buyer pays return shipping) if it is not what you needed!

Frequently Asked Questions

1. Does the powered anode work with either gas or electric water heaters?

   1. Yes! It works with any 30-100 gallon water heater that uses 1-1/16” hex-head anodes and which have a tank longer than 16”.

2. Does the powered anode work as well as a magnesium anode?

   1. It works better! Increased corrosion protection by ACTIVELY propelling a positive charge to your water tank, thereby preventing the metal from losing its electrons (corroding). Furthermore, when magnesium or aluminum anodes corrode they leave chunks of debris at the bottom of the tank which reduce the efficiency of the tank and increase corrosion where contact is made. The powered anode fixes both of these problems, and also because it replaces the magnesium anode, there is far less-to-zero material for odor-producing bacteria to feed upon!

3. How can the powered anode protect all the way to the far end of the tank?

   1. Our tests showed it achieved a greater than -950mv differential required at the far end of all tested water heater tanks in environments where sulphate-reducing producing bacteria may be present. (In other words, greater electrical/ICCP protection than is necessary for steel tanks.) Those with curious minds may really enjoy this document, which STOLTCO often referenced in the development of this anode.

4. My water heater has two (2) anodes…what should I do?

   1. It is most ideal to run a powered anode in each location, as this will provide the tank with the most protection. The tank manufacturer likely designed the tank for two anodes due to “shadow” areas in the tank that require two anodes. If you wish to only install one powered anode, you may use a sacrificial Aluminum-Zinc anode of your choice in the other position. The powered anode will in large part protect the metal sacrificial anode until the powered anode is inoperable, at which point the metal anode will begin to corrode as intended, acting to a degree as an insurance backup! Please note: if the tank has two anodes you will want to keep both active and not just rely on one.

5. Will the powered anode stop the “egg smell” in the hot water?

   1. Yes, in most cases! It does this because it replaces a sacrificial anode (typically magnesium) that a sulfur-gas-producing bacteria was feeding on! With the powered anode you can protect your tank without producing sediment and without supplying odor-producing-bacteria more food!

6. How can I remove my old anode? -it seems stuck!

   1. Old anodes can be removed most easily through the use of a 3/4” or 1” impact tool that can deliver at least 700 foot-lbs of torque (in many cases it will take 1200+ ft-lbs of torque!). The impact tool performs much better at removal than hand because the application of the torque is so fast that the water heater tank does not have enough time to move, therefore the anode is dislodged.

7. Can I install it in a Bradford-White/Nipple-style water tank by using a T-fitting?

   1. NO! The PAK is not suitable for that style of installation because the electrically insulating shroud must be a lot longer (estimated 5-6 inches total length from bottom of anode fitting!) to prevent a large amount of the current from simply flowing to the fitting and to the top of the water tank. STOLTCO is planning on releasing such a solution in the first half of 2022. Be wary of any anodes that pass through metal fittings with no electrical isolation/insulation between the anode rod and the fitting.

8. How can I tell if it is working, or if the anode went bad or is hooked up wrong?

   1. If the anode has been installed in your tank, then a green light on the adapter will turn on only under the following conditions: (A) The adapter is plugged into a 100-120VAC power source. (B) The adapter is properly connected per instructions to ground and to the anode. (C) The tank has water in it.

9. The connection tab on the top of the anode is not long enough to fully seat in the red right-angle connector.

   1. There will be 1/8” to 3/8” tab exposed on the top of the anode, which is more than sufficient for an electrical connection to our extra large (for ease of use) right angle connector. Install the system per the instructions and look at the adapter for light indication to show it is working. We designed the male tab to be somewhat short to reduce the likelihood of unintended bending!

10. What sets your powered anode apart from the competition?

    1. We save the customer the most money in a package that has both the highest quality and greatest ease of use.

       1. We are the market leader in power delivery, allowing use on tank sizes up to 80 gallons.

       2. We are the market leader in combined anode area and length, which allows us to claim the longest anode lifetime.

       3. We are the market leader in shielding the top of the water tank from excessive electron flow. Our shield is made of robust silicone which will not succumb to the effects of hot water like many polyolefins will. Most importantly: we offer one of the longest lengths of shielding available to ensure the electric current flows to where it matters: your entire water tank, and not just one area!

       4. We are the market leader in leak protection: our Titanium rod is squeezed within a food-grade engineering polymer. As the temperature increases, the polymer will expand, creating internal pressures which further prevent the admittance of water. The customer installs and removes only our anode, and our anode consists of a single solid body that contacts your tank, not an threaded assembly of various parts which can change during installation or removal.

       5. We are the market leader in ease of installation: our anode installs with the same 1-1/16” hex that your old anode is removed with….and we even supply the hex! Our adapter has a 12’ cord, and is tagged for reference to help prevent accidental unplugging as the years go by with ultimate water heater protection. The adapter is equipped with a forked terminal for ease of sliding under a ground screw, rather than fiddle around with completely removing the screw.

       6. We came late to the scene of powered anode manufacturing….so it really wasn’t fair to our competitors because we were able to study them and make improvements upon their technology, so we do feel a great amount of gratitude toward them!

11. Why is the anode made of Titanium?

    1. It is Titanium because the anode must be inert, conductive, highly resistant to corrosion, and able to accept a mixed metal oxide coating which is a further increase to all these attributes. The surface area is so great on the STOLTCO powered anode PAK SKU that it is calculated to have a 50-year life-time if run with the bundled power supply!